Cuba is a rumor mill, especially when the buzz involves ex-president Fidel Castro Ruiz. One thing we know for sure…. the aging leader is an environmentalist.
Castro – soon after the revolution – began replanting clear cut forest, experimenting with environmental friendly farming and launched a process which resulted in almost a quarter of the island’s lands and aquatic treasures now protected in parks and preserves.
One pristine site is “Jardines de la Reina” – Gardens of the Queen. A string of archipelagos roughly the size of the Florida Keys, the Garden was first discovered and named by Columbus to honor Queen Isabella of Spain.
For more than fifty years this island paradise has been off limits to all but restricted commercial lobster harvesting.
The Ocean Doctor claims, “The Gardes was Cuba’s first preserve.”
Wikipedia says, “It was one of Castro’s favorite underwater fishing spots.”
According to Cuba’s coconut telegraph, it was the bearded socialist’s love of a beautiful woman that led to the preservation of this unique ecosystem.
Seems back in the 1960s, while on a tour of Cuba’s old city Trinidad de Cuba, Fidel fell for the lovely Dalia Soto. At the time, the blond hair, green eyed school teacher was serving as secretary of the Sugar Works Union.
Dalia was a free diver of some note and had been to the garden spearfishing. She suggested her new suitor visit the area and, when the trip was over, a relationship which would eventually lead to marriage had blossomed. In addition, the aquatic wonder that enthralls us today was for the second time in recorded history…. revered in honor of a woman.
Club Natico Turns 25
If you’ve sailed, cruised or fished the waters of Cuba, chances are you’ve visited Marina Hemingway. Located nine miles west of Havana, the marina has been the primary nautical link to Cuba for the boating world. Built in 1958 by then President Batista, the marina lay unfinished until Cuba opened its doors to tourism in 1985. Since then, sailors, tournament fishermen and broken boaters have found the welcome mat out, no matter your nationality or circumstances.
Food, fuel and protected slips are not the only attractions. A port of entry to the country and convenient access to the centuries old capital of Cuba are strong draws that lure boaters from across the world to Marina Hemingway.
Mega yachts stop on the way to and from winter haunts in the Caribbean. Sport fishing boats on the way to the spring sailfish push off the Yucatan refuel, and multi-engine center consoles complete their dash across the 90 mile Florida Straits at the Marina named for the famous fisherman, writer and resident of Cuba, Ernest Hemingway.
Located just inside the marina gates sits the Hemingway International Yacht Club. On special occasions, its yardarm, bow shaped ocean blue wall and two story building is adorned with flags from too many countries to count, flapping in the tropical trades.
Inside the tidy clubhouse, hang yacht club burgees from around the globe. Photos of Fidel and Ernest, plaques, awards and mementos of past achievements adorn the walls alongside pictures of record Blue Marlin and Mahi. The Club’s bar and spacious patio is a watering hole for sailors, yachtsmen and fishermen who sip Mojitoes, spin yarns and share the latest nautical news.
On May 21st of 2017, the club celebrated its 25th birthday, a unique milestone for the the only private yacht club in Cuba. In pre-revolution Cuba, there were more than one hundred yacht clubs and sailing organizations on the island. Branded by the revolution as a bourgeois activity, yachting was discouraged along with golf, the Beatles and Hollywood movies.
But 25 years ago this past May, Jose Escrisch convinced the government that Cuba’s future must include mariners. Cuba’s geographic location as the gateway to the Caribbean made Marina Hemingway too important a resource to ignore.
From the dream of one man and with and a small injection of private funds, the Hemingway Yacht Club has steadily grown in size and stature. It currently enjoys reciprocal relations with over 6oo yacht clubs, fishing and sailing organization worldwide.
Commodore Escrish, a native of Santiago de Cuba, the island’s second largest city came to Havana to attend the Cuban Naval academy.
After graduation he received a commission and rose swiftly through the ranks to captain. After a brief stint in the USSR, Escrich returned to the academy as an instructor until he resigned to head Marlin company, which at the time oversaw operations of all the marinas in Cuba.
Today, the Commodore maintains a daunting schedule, directing his small dedicated staff in welcoming American yachting organizations, magazines, movie makers and boating industry representatives, all clamoring for time. In addition, Eschich has traveled to the States numerous times to brief race officials, fellow Commodores and regatta organizers on how best to navigate the waters of recently opened Cuba.
From January of 2017 through the 25th anniversary, the club will have hosted a dozen visiting clubs, regattas and rallys with pig roasts, Cuban rum and salsa dancing. The season kicked off with the resumption of the historic St. Petersburg, Florida to Havana Race in February, after a 54 year hiatus. The culmination of this busy year will be the Hemingway International Billfish Championship which last year featured nearly 100 competitors from eight countries, including more than 70 American boats.
Commodore Escrich is responsible for the survival of the Hemingway tournament, now in its 67th year. (“The Man Who Would Not Let The Hemingway Die”). Through many lean years the Commodore convince the powers at be to continue the contest despite a lack of competitors. “We must not let the tournament die.” He declared in a 2013 interview. Participation in the Hemingway had dropped to nine boats and the few tournament supporters were pulling out. With recently relaxed regulations for American boaters, the tournament has the potential to become one of the premier billfish competitions in the world.
Although the club encourages membership, it never turns away visiting mariners. On most days, you will find Cuban captains and sailors from the neighboring pueblos of Jaimanitas and Sante Fe conversing with foreign yachtsmen and stray tourist who make the short hop from Havana to glimpse life outside the bustling capital. The gathering of diverse peoples is the mission statement of the club. The Commodore and his staff strive to create an environment where the interaction of people from all countries, all backgrounds, and all political persuasions come together as friends and neighbors, all fellow travelers on the planter Earth’s great oceans.
“I began this organization based on the premise the boating community has a bond that crosses politics and ideologies.” says Escrich. “When one comes to the aid of a fellow sailor in peril, the question is not of politics. The question is how may I help? I believe Senor Hemingway would agree.”